The Arctic Circle, Norway

Northern Norway in winter is raw, remote and shaped entirely by nature. Travelling through Oslo, Bergen, Flam, Tromsø and Skjervøy, the goal was to experience the Arctic’s most iconic wildlife — orcas moving through the fjords and the elusive northern lights dancing above the mountains.

Getting from Australia to Northern Norway is no small journey. Travelling from Sydney to Bergen took nearly 28 hours — the kind of trip where you start to appreciate just how far around the globe you’ve come.

Over three weeks we travelled across the country — Oslo, Bergen, Flam, Tromsø and eventually Skjervøy in the far north — chasing two of the Arctic’s most iconic sights: orcas and the northern lights.

Into the Arctic

The northern lights proved elusive this time. They seemed to appear just ahead of us, or somewhere we had only just left. That’s the reality of travelling in the Arctic — patience is required, and sometimes luck simply doesn’t fall your way.

Norway is vast and dramatic, and this journey only scratched the surface of the landscapes stretching across the Arctic Circle.

Searching for Orcas

Each day we headed out into the fjords searching the dark winter waters for orcas.

The conditions were cold but surprisingly calm. Water temperatures hovered around 5°C, while the air temperature ranged from 0 to –5°C. Once suited up, it often felt warmer in the water than standing on deck waiting.

When we were lucky enough to encounter them, the experience was unforgettable.

Imagine sleek black-and-white submarines moving silently through dark water. Visibility might only be five metres — an orca appears, glides past effortlessly, and disappears again just as quickly. Powerful, precise and completely in control.

Arctic Light

Above the surface, the fjords were equally breathtaking.

November in the Arctic Circle brings soft pastel light — pinks, purples and oranges stretching across the horizon beyond the dark silhouettes of the mountains. Even without wildlife, the scenery alone makes the journey worthwhile.

Food, Culture and the Norwegian Way

Between the long days on the water we discovered some incredible food along the way.

Norway’s restaurant scene was a highlight, with memorable meals in Oslo and Tromsø — Restaurant Smak standing out with an exceptional tasting menu.

Norway is also a fascinating country socially and environmentally. Their plastic recycling system is one of the most effective in the world, achieving return rates close to 95% through smart incentives and simple regulations.

Wildlife encounters were brief and the aurora never quite appeared, but the landscapes alone made the journey unforgettable. Soft pastel Arctic skies, quiet fishing villages and dramatic fjords create a powerful sense of scale. Northern Norway is a place where patience is essential and nature always sets the rules — which only makes the moments that do unfold feel even more special.

The People You Meet

One of the best parts of the journey was the people we met along the way — travellers and locals alike. Norwegians, Danes, Dutch, Americans — everyone with their own stories of adventure in the Arctic.

Travel has a way of bringing strangers together, and those shared experiences often become the most memorable parts of the trip.

Reflections

Not every trip unfolds exactly as planned. Some deliver everything you hope for, while others teach patience and perspective.

Northern Norway is wild, beautiful and unpredictable — the kind of place where nature always decides how the story will unfold.

Despite the challenges, it left me with one clear thought: I’d love to return.

jakobdezwart