Tonga. I only ever travel here during the whale season — It’s addictive.

Between July and October, humpback whales arrive in Tonga after migrating from Antarctica to give birth and mate. It’s warm, it’s calm, and millions of whales have made this journey since the dawn of time.

My last visit was to Vava’u. This time, I’m visiting the island of Ha’apai.

The place I called home for almost two weeks was Matafonua Lodge — and I was spoilt. Situated at the end of a peninsula, it boasts an amazing reef, incredible beaches, and warm, generous hosts.

When you travel and find yourself in a place where you immediately feel safe and welcomed, you instantly relax — and you know you’re on holiday.

The accommodation is a traditional fale, a thatched hut with the comforts of a proper bed. Every night, the sound of the ocean puts you to sleep. It’s dreamy.

I learn so much here — from the likes of award-winning photographer Scott Portelli, I swim with humpback whales every day (except Sunday, Tonga’s official day of rest), visit resting leopard sharks, and explore the coral reefs of the local lagoons. This becomes my daily rhythm.

I’m speechless when I first lay eyes on the lagoon.

We’re a small group that came together to swim with whales, learn about their habits, and spend time with Scott, who has over a decade of experience in Tonga with these gentle giants.

Our group is international: Finnish, German, American, Australian, and Kiwi. It’s wonderful watching strangers become good friends so quickly. It makes sharing these unforgettable swims over the two weeks even more special.

Whale season had only just begun, so we kept our expectations in check. They’re wild animals — they arrive as it suits them.

Each morning, we leave the white sandy beach at 9 a.m. and head out to sea on a small boat for six hours. I usually hate boats — but this time, my sea legs kick in quickly. Could I finally be getting better at this? I really hope so.

They breach. They slap their tails. They blow.

The spotters call out directions — “2 o’clock!” “11 o’clock!” — followed by loud “Wows!” and excited finger-pointing. The days pass slowly at first. Our sightings are frequent, but finding resting whales suitable for in-water encounters doesn’t always go our way.

We are well looked after.

Our guides, our captain, and the lovely team in the resort kitchen do a fantastic job. Every lunch is an island escape — a Robinson Crusoe-style sandbank — complete with coconuts freshly picked from the trees. It’s hard to beat a private island for lunch.

From Day 1, our group makes a pact: every evening, we meet at the Sunset Bar. Aptly named, it’s the perfect place to recap the day’s events, relax, and connect with each other. Zero stress.

The final few days of this trip are my favourite.

Incredible long swims with curious adults, multiple encounters with mothers and calves. My dopamine is pumping. It’s emotional, exhilarating — hard to describe, even for a second time around.

Connecting with nature on this scale changes you. It makes you a better person. It helps me make smarter choices: avoiding single-use plastic, taking better care of the planet.

I’m frothing — and already planning another trip.

I hope you enjoy the photos!

Every evening we met at the sunset bar.